Hectic Hanoi

We flew from Luang Prabang, Laos to Hanoi, the capital city of Vietnam a couple of days ago. It took 55 minutes and I only had one minor breakdown during turbulence. Not bad going considering my track record of near death experiences on this trip so far.

Hanoi airport felt like an alien land after our time in laid back Laos. It had all the tell tale signs of a capital city; bright lights, modern architecture and more Samsung adverts than you could shake your iPhone at.

The hostel we booked had arranged for a driver to collect us from the airport, who (much to my surprise) was waiting at arrivals holding a sign for ‘Amen Davidson’ …close enough. Despite some dodgy lane straddling and cutting up of lorries and bikes, we arrived at our hostel – which is situated in the Old Quarter of Hanoi, within half an hour.

And what a pleasant surprise it was. The hostel is brand new, spotless and complete with amazing showers, games room, chill out room, roof garden, cafe and bar. Standing in reception with all my bags, surrounded by likeminded people going about their evening in such a relaxed way, I felt sudden nostalgia for my time spent in University halls.

The staff who checked us in spoke fluent English and recommended where to eat and what trips to book – we decided to think about that the following day once we were settled. We made our way up to the 5th floor where the electronic key card granted us access to our room; we dumped our stuff and headed straight out to see what Hanoi had to offer.

I’ve been trying to think of how to describe this city but it’s so hard to put into words. The streets are saturated with people, mopeds, rickshaws and little old ladies trying to sell you doughnuts and limes. I literally didn’t know where to look, the layout of the streets is like a maze and you’re never really sure if you’ve gone full circle or not – but it doesn’t even matter. No two streets look the same and to be honest, there’s so much going on that I wouldn’t have even realised if I had walked the same street over and over again. You notice something new every time.

We wandered around taking it all in for a while. Every inch of every building is used for something different; the first floor is usually some kind of shop, market or restaurant, the next floor might be a bar, and then the next few floors up could be a hotel, hostel or home. The buildings are all tall and thin and each one is unique. We marvelled at the intricacy of the architecture and how the locals utilised every inch of space they have for their businesses and homes. Even every inch of the pavement is lined with street food stalls complete with make shift stoves, surrounded by tiny stools and tables which are all of a few inches above the ground.

The sheer amount of people makes London looks like a Kentish cul de sac and the vibrancy of the city is like nothing I’ve ever experienced before. We arrived on a random Thursday night but the atmosphere was as though it were New Years Eve. We found a little bar, ordered noodles and a drink and watched on as the wonderful chaos continued to grow. The bars and clubs got louder as the night drew on, and I started to feel like I was in the film ‘The Hangover’ – a random tiger strutting down the street would not have looked out of place at all. It was incredible.

The next day we decided to retrace our steps and see what the city was like in the day compared to night. It was just as hectic, but less so due to partying locals, and more due to the tangled web of motorbikes driving on both the roads and the pavements. We quickly realised that red and green traffic lights mean nothing and that you kind of just have to brave it and walk across the roads with conviction – most people swerve out of your way.

The markets looked so different in the day too, and we started to realise there were two types:

1 . Markets where you could buy clothes, book a flight, get your laundry done and eat street food… I would assume that anywhere which can book you a flight while washing your pants and cooking you dinner is probably not the most legit.

2 . Markets with more of a theme. There were literally entire streets lined with markets selling the exact same products. For example, we walked down a road where every single stall sold shoes, then one where every stall sold bags, the next electronics and so on.

James treated himself to a ‘genuine fake’ North Face coat off a market stall on what we decided was called ‘coat street’. We haggled and bagged a bargain.

There’s also a lot of history in the city so we took advantage of the cooler weather and went into the Ho Chi Minh museum – which is pretty much a shrine to the late president of Vietnam. I was ready to learn and absorb everything about Vietnam’s history, but the staff at the museum rushed everyone around and we couldn’t even decipher when Ho Chin Minh was born and when he passed – which I thought was a pretty vital piece of information in a museum about him. So we ended up googling information ourselves over a post museum Starbucks (yes we came all the way to Asia and found a Starbucks).

Tomorrow we head to Halong Bay, its an absolute must see in Vietnam and I can’t wait. We have booked a 3 day, 2 night excursion through our hostel; we will spend one night on a boat in the bay and one night in a waterside bungalow on an island called Cat Ba. The itinerary for all three days sounds absolutely amazing.

The constant dodging of vehicles in Hanoi is beginning to drain me, so the idea of exploring such a natural wonder with the only traffic being the odd canoe, sounds pretty fantastic to me.

I’ll let you know how it is!

Amy x

From Bus To Boutique

Hello from Luang Prabang; our third and final stop in Laos!

We booked a ‘VIP’ bus from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang, which was sold to us as an air conditioned mini van (they even showed us a photo of what it would look like), we were told it would take 4 hours and it only cost 65,000LAK each (£6.50) – sorted.

A comfortable journey to our next stop in Laos awaited.

But of course that’s not at all what showed up; behold the death bus.

It was the oldest, most rickety bus you have ever seen in your life – it even smelled old and didn’t even have seat belts, let alone air con. When we got to the bus, all the seats were full; we thought maybe we would have to wait for the next one, but our luggage had already been thrown onto the roof of the bus. Errrrr…. what’s the plan here guys? The driver and his somewhat erratic buddy then proceeded to fold down some kind of make shift seats (no backs, just a fold down stool) down the centre isle of the bus.

Joy. In we got.

The journey started off ok – slightly uncomfortable what with the makeshift seat and all, but the guy next to me had films downloaded onto his laptop and offered me an earphone so the journey felt like it was going quite quickly.

Then the roads began to become less road-ish and more dirt track-ish… and they were going from flat to vertical pretty fast too. The bus sounded like it was going to explode with every slight incline and I was convinced our luggage must have slipped off of the roof by now. I realised quickly that this bus was heading into the mountains.

I exaggerate about a lot of things, but when I say this bus went to the top of the mountains, I’m not even slightly embellishing. We were following windy, dusty tracks up and up and up. I made the mistake of looking down and it literally looked like the view from a plane during take off. Except we weren’t in a plane, we were in a struggling bus on ‘roads’ just about wide enough for two cars let alone two buses, and it felt like we were far too close to the sheer drop down the mountain face.

Our driver wasn’t phased though, and proceeded to OVERTAKE OTHER VEHICLES. I was trying so hard to ignore my surroundings and just focus on the films this guy gave me to watch, but to be honest I couldn’t hear a word as the bus was constantly imploding, so I just sat sweating and trying to close my eyes for the duration. Which by the way, was meant to be 4 hours… it ended up being over 8.

But, we made it to Luang Prabang safe and sound. And so did our luggage.

We got a tuk tuk into the town, grabbed some food and found our hotel. It’s gorgeous. A brand new Boutique B&B just outside the main town with an eco lodge vibe. Clean, spacious, comfortable … and a rainforest style shower in which we both proceeded to have 20 minute showers each. We even got our laundry done there. Total recoup.

The next day, feeling refreshed, we explored. It’s beautiful, quaint and a total contrast to our two previous stops in Laos.

The Mekong River runs through the centre, joining one side of Luang Prabang to the other with just a bamboo bridge (which felt surprisingly low on the possible death scale). In the town are gorgeous markets selling fresh food, smoothies, art and clothing – it’s not the tat you usually see at markets, it’s all handmade there and then. At night the markets get bigger; the roads are closed off to accommodate all the stalls and the walkways are lit by lanterns – you could get lost weaving in and out, admiring every little thing.

On our third day, we took a bus to the biggest natural beauty in Luang Prabang; the Kuang Si waterfall. The waterfall was gigantic and the sound of the water crashing against the rocks was so therapeutic – it’s part of the reason I love living by the beach at home. We were able to swim in the turquoise lagoons which separate the rocky parts of the waterfall; it was so serene …despite other tourists having full on photo shoots around us! Speaking of which; photos don’t do it justice at all.

The last couple of days we have been exploring more; dipping in and out of temples and side streets. We found a riverside bar called Utopia, which stands tall on stilts in the banks of the Mekong River; we sat on cushions on the handmade bamboo floor, overlooked the water and sipped on happy hour drinks. The atmosphere is so calm here; there’s a perfect harmony between tourists and locals, western and eastern influences and both ancient and modern styles. The locals have a midnight curfew, so everything shuts up around then, but it’s actually quite nice – Vang Vieng catered far more for nightlife, so this relaxed atmosphere is a welcomed change.

The next time I post I’ll be in country number 2; Vietnam! It may be worth noting at this point that I refused the night bus to Vietnam after the death bus fiasco, so we are flying there instead. I also hate flying but it seemed like the lesser of two evils.

Amy x

Brits Abroad

After our somewhat disappointing start in Vientiane, we moved onto our next stop in Laos; Vang Vieng. We took a 4 hour bus which cost 80,000LAK pp (£8) in which we defied the laws of gravity and cheated death approximately 487 times amongst cow crossings, driving on both sides of the road (as well as straight down the middle) and excessive use of the horn. But despite it all, the crazy driver – who I think was about 17, got us here safe and sound.

I got off the bus and just smiled. FINALLY. This is what I have been waiting for. The Main Street was buzzing with excited travellers, bars, street food and tuktuks. It took just 2 minutes to find our hostel, we checked in and went straight back out to explore.

The town is small but bustling and lively. We walked around the Main Street, dipping in and out of markets and browsing the day trips on offer. We went slightly off the beaten track and found ourselves at a beautiful point in the Nam Song River. We crossed an extremely rickety, potentially (completely) unsafe wooden bridge; I was trying to balance, avoid gaping holes and not looking down…meanwhile the locals were zooming across it on motorbikes with absolutely no sign of slowing for pedestrians in their path. I was to get used to the totally fearless attitude of the Laotian locals.

But once across, it was beyond worth it. There are floating bars along the river, so we found a perfect spot on the edge of one, grabbed an ice cold drink, dangled our feet over the edge into the cool, clear water and just took in the view as the hot air balloons floated across the sun set. It was a moment of pure bliss. Later that night after some Pad Thai, we went to check out some local bars…and in true ‘brits abroad’ style, we found an Irish bar. It was called ‘Gary’s’ and was run by Gary himself and a few other Irish guys; they had live music, cheap drinks and had attracted a load of other travellers like ourselves, who we ended up in a poole competition with. We won.

The next day we followed signs to ‘fantastic views’ through vast fields surrounded by mountains of incomprehensible size, sunflower fields and some dodgy looking cattle – only to find that the route to these ‘fantastic views’ was via unstable ladders (held together with rusting nails), resting against rocks at a vertical angle leading up the mountain face to a view point which seemed about a mile high. It made the earlier mentioned bridge seem like a safe haven.

But I wanted to embrace the experience so I agreed to go for it. Approximately 20 metres up, I lost my mind. Just how unsafe this was suddenly consumed me. We were already so high and just one wrong footing or slip of a ladder would result in a fall that even the hulk would not survive…plus we were in the middle of nowhere and it occurred to me that if anything did happen – no one would know. I started to panic, and I mean REALLY panic; my whole body was shaking and I burst into tears. It was complete and utter fear paired with total exhaustion from lack of sleep.

My immediate thought; I want to get down. But of course, the only way down is the same way we came up… and unsurprisingly it’s even worse going backwards. James – who thought it was a fantastic idea to ‘get out of our comfort zone’ (cheers James), remained calm despite my pathetic breakdown and talked me through every step; where to put my hands and where to get my footing. After a lot of ‘I can’t’ and ‘I’m stuck’, we made it all the way back down safely. Back to the river bar we went.

After that ordeal, we decided to book a proper day trip for the following day. Transport, tours and accommodation are so easy to book here, whether it’s a week, a day or an hour in advance. We booked an all day excursion. We were picked up from our hostel in a tuktuk, went tubing (I expected it to be in the sun with a drink, but it was in a pitch black cave), kayaked down the river and then finished the day at the Blue Lagoon. It was great and it was just what I needed.

We leave Vang Vieng tomorrow and head to Luang Parabang by bus. I’ll miss the river and it’s floating bars, which is where I’m writing this blog post but I must admit I won’t miss our hostel. It’s in a great location with amazing views, but throughout the night, all you can hear are cockerels competing to see who can cockadoodledoo the loudest, motor bike engines and some questionable noises coming from the electrics and plumbing. It was however a social place with a communal area, Poole and Table Football as well as wifi …and they broke into my suitcase for me when I lost the padlock key – so I can’t complain too much.

The next two places we have booked look brilliant, so onwards and upwards!

Amy x

And So It Begins…

We have arrived safe and sound! We took off from Gatwick on Wednesday morning and landed in Laos on Thursday afternoon.

We are 7 hours ahead here which is confusing because our body clocks are still in England and it feels as though we missed a day whilst in the air.

Talking of being in the air; first things first… the flight. Oh my god the flight.

I’m not a great flyer at the best of times; during take-off my hands clam up, my eyes squeeze shut and I convince myself that the plane hasn’t got enough thrust and I can feel it falling backwards.

So needless to say I wasn’t overjoyed at the prospect of over 13 hours of back to back flights …my first long haul flights since age 6.

HOWEVER. I had never flown with Emirates before.

Wow. I was acting like it was the first time I had ever left the house, I was so excited by this floating 5* hotel that I barely even noticed take-off.

Waiting for me on my seat were headphones and a blanket and pillow for my comfort. My personal little screen played host to thousands of films and TV shows – I watched ‘Bridget Jones’ Baby’ , ‘Bad Moms’ , ‘Trolls’ and an entire series of ‘Friends’.

I’m aware that I have no palette when it comes to entertainment – but it kept me occupied and calm.

Oh and the refreshments – unlimited drinks (including alcohol), a 3 course meal and afternoon tea?! I mean, come on. I barely wanted to get off!

Emirates got our trip off to the perfect start. We went from London to Dubai to Bangkok to Laos without a hitch – and our luggage made it here too. Absolute bonus.

Now, I’ve got to be completely honest… 2 days in and we have already made 2 huge rookie errors.

1. We succumbed to the jet lag. The day we got here, we powered through despite missing 2 days of sleep, went to bed at 10pm and set an alarm for the following morning – textbook. But then we snoozed the alarm. I don’t know what happened to the second alarm but all I know is that we accidentally slept through an entire day. We awoke at 4pm (9am UK time), made the most of what was left of the day and then tried to go to sleep at 10pm again. Needless to say, that did not work. We were wide awake until 6am this morning playing cards and watching ‘The Grand Tour’. We then woke up to our alarm at 9am. Shattered. But we WILL power through today and get our body clocks reset!

2. WHERE ARE WE. Laos was one of the countries on our list so naturally we thought we should start in the capital; Vientiane and work our way towards Vietnam which is next the next country we will visit. Theory = good. Reality = fail. This capital city is about as buzzing as a traditional English village. Without the village pub. But it’s fine. We are using our time here to sort out our body clocks, plan our next move, make the most of the pool and get a base tan. With months of travelling ahead, I think a few days of chilling and getting our bearings is just what we need.

So all in all, the trip is off to a slightly rocky but entirely manageable start. We will be fully refreshed and ready to embrace our next stop when we leave here on Monday.

We can’t complain really; all the Laotian people we have met so far have been so friendly and helpful, our hotel is lovely and it’s 30 degrees.

The next stop in Laos is Vang Vieng, which is a much more lively and scenic place with lots to do and see. We have also found a hostel there with unlimited free whisky in the evenings …sold.

Amy x

‘Twas The Night Before Take Off

After months of dreaming, planning and saving; s**t has most definitely just got real.

Tomorrow, my boyfriend and I board a one way (3 legged) flight to begin our Asian adventure*.

As expected; my irrational thoughts have begun to circulate…

– Is my passport in date?! Yes.
– Is my flight definitely booked?! Yes.
– Have I packed enough underwear?! Yes.
– Have I had all the right vaccinations?! Yes.
– Are the visas I got online actually legit?! I really hope so.
– Is my body bikini ready?! Absolutely NOT but it’s too late now.

Meanwhile, my better half’s main concern is whether 6am is too early to have a boozy breakfast at the airport (spoiler: it’s never too early).

It’s because I’ve always been a planner. I’m organised, I’m always on time and I always know what’s next.

So although the spontaneity of this trip is entirely out of my comfort zone and has my brain working overtime (usually just as I want to go to sleep), it’s exactly what I need.

For the next 6 months I have no plan, no schedule, no idea what to expect and to be honest; absolutely no idea what I’m doing.

All I know is that I’m about to indulge in once in a lifetime experiences, adventures I can’t even comprehend and a whole load of sunshine, sunsets, sandy feet and turquoise sea.

I am SO ready.

All that’s left to do now is enjoy the last night of reality; home cooked food, double bed and cups of proper tea.

The bags are packed / stuffed within an inch of their life, the alarm is set for 5am and my lovely mum has agreed to do the airport run.

The next time I write a post, I’ll be on the other side of the world!

Speak soon,
Amy x

*My route as it stands (bearing in mind it has changed countless times) is as follows:
Laos
Vietnam
Cambodia
Thailand
Malaysia
Singapore
Indonesia
Philippines

Is It Me You’re Looking For?

As my trip draws ever closer, one question people have asked me has really stood out – and although worded differently each time I hear it, it’s essentially the same;

” Are you going off to find yourself? ”

Like… what?

I know it’s that whole gap year cliche and I know they don’t mean it literally, but it got me thinking.

At 25, I feel like I know myself pretty well. I know what I like, what I don’t like, what I want in life and what I don’t.

…and so does everyone else because my poker face is pretty much non existent.

So I think it’s because of that awareness of myself that this is the right time to travel, rather than going in order to ‘find myself’.

Everyone is different, but as the saying goes; not all those who wander are lost. I think that applies to me entirely.

I’m genuinely happy with my life as it is and I don’t yearn for much more (other than to win the lottery and wake up looking like a Victoria Secrets model).

So although you can always learn more about yourself, I’m not off on my travels to learn or search for anything in particular – I just want to explore, enjoy and embrace a new adventure because it’s the right time for me and because I’m lucky enough to be able to.

It really is as simple as that.

So, I guess my answer to the question of what I want to get out of my trip, is; I don’t know. But I can’t wait to find out.

It’s now 1 week ’til take off and it cannot come around quick enough!

Amy x